How to Tune a Traditional Bow: A Step-by-Step Guide for Better Accuracy and Performance
Tuning a traditional bow, whether a recurve or longbow, isn’t about precision-machined gadgets or laser sighting systems. It’s a lot about feel, flight, and instinct. But that doesn’t mean you should shoot untuned gear. Getting your setup dialed in can make a world of difference in how well you shoot and how cleanly your arrows fly. Here’s a straightforward guide to tuning your traditional bow.
1. Start with the Right Arrows
Before any tuning begins, make sure your arrows are spined correctly for your bow’s draw weight and your draw length. Arrow spine refers to how much the shaft flexes. Too stiff or too weak and your arrows won’t fly true.
Use a spine chart or spine calculator to get in the ballpark, but expect to fine-tune from there. Cut a little off the shaft to stiffen it, or add point weight to weaken the spine.
2. Check Brace Height
Brace height is the distance between the deepest part of your grip and the string. A recurve typically likes a brace height between 7.5 to 8.5 inches; a longbow usually likes 6.5 to 7.5 inches. Start in the middle of the range and adjust in small increments.
To change brace height:
Twist the string tighter to increase it.
Untwist the string to lower it.
A higher brace height often makes the bow quieter and smoother to shoot, while a lower brace height may increase speed but add hand shock.
3. Nocking Point Placement
If your nocking point is too high or low, your arrows will fishtail or porpoise in flight. Use a bow square and start by setting the nocking point about 1/2 inch above level (above 90° to the string).
Shoot a few bare shafts (arrows with no feathers) at about 10-15 yards. If the arrow hits nock-high, raise the nocking point. If it hits nock-low, lower it.
4. Shoot Bare Shaft for Tuning
Bare shaft tuning is the traditional bowhunter’s best tool. Strip the feathers from a few arrows and shoot them alongside your fletched arrows.
If the bare shafts hit right (for a right-handed shooter), the arrow spine is too stiff.
If they hit left, the spine is too weak.
Adjust by changing point weight, shaft length, or trying a different spine class.
When bare shafts and fletched arrows hit the same spot, your arrows are tuned to your bow and shooting clean.
5. Check String Nock Fit and Silencers
Your string nock should snap onto the string firmly but not too tight. A loose nock will fall off mid-draw. A tight one will affect arrow flight.
String silencers (like wool puffs or cat whiskers) reduce noise but can also dampen string oscillation. If your bow is loud or “twangy,” silencers can help with noise and even improve arrow flight.
6. Paper Tune if You Want
Though less common for traditional setups, paper tuning can give you a visual readout of arrow flight. Shoot an arrow through a piece of paper and read the tear:
Tail left/right = spine issue.
Tail up/down = nocking point issue.
It’s useful but not necessary. Most trad shooters rely more on bare shaft testing and field results.
7. Trust the Shot Process
Once your bow and arrows are tuned, the final piece is you. Stick with a consistent shot sequence—same anchor, same release, and focus on your aiming method. If you shoot three fingers under and use the tip of the arrow to aim, make sure you’re doing it the same way every time.
Final Thoughts
Tuning a traditional bow isn’t a one-and-done process. It’s something you refine over time. Arrow flight tells the truth. Watch it. Listen to your bow. And don’t be afraid to make small adjustments. A well-tuned bow isn’t just more accurate—it’s more enjoyable to shoot.